My Quest For Zest...
What To Do
Best Beaches
Where To Eat
Where to Stay
Getting There
Getting Around
'Going Green'
MY QUEST FOR ZEST...
It was bittersweet leaving Indonesia, the past two months had been paradise... Yet, I had a lot to look forward to. Originally my itinerary was as follows for Thailand: Koh Phangan 10 days to enjoy the beach and relax, Chiang Mai/Pi 5 days for temple visits, hot springs and cooking classes, then a flight into Vietnam. However, as Covid-19 spread exponentially around the world, borders throughout Southeast Asia closed, and I became grounded in Koh Phangan. Despite missing family back home in the USA, being quarantined on an island in the tropics wasn't necessarily a bad thing.
I have spent 5+ months in Koh Phangan and love the place more and more each day. My first impression of the island was tainted with comparisons to Indonesia. The prices were higher, and the beaches appeared similar. The cafes more expensive and the food not as unique or outstanding comparatively... but the local Thai food and the abundance of options right away blew me away. The night markets and food stalls are cheap, delicious and offer a wide selection to vegans/vegetarians. I spent the first two weeks driving every day from Srithanu to Thong Sala just for the cheap, fresh local food.
When markets closed and restaurants resorted to take-away I tended to cook more in my beach bungalow with an occasional pick-up, limiting my food-crawl but having more time and resources to maximize my coast exploration. However, as time passed and no new cases of Corona were present on the island, things slowly began to re-open and my cafe hop was restored.
My heart grew fond of Koh Phangan for the spiritual energy that vibrates around Srithanu, the fresh juices and flavorful food finds, the workshops and events that happen daily, the drum circles and kirtan on the beach, epic sunset views and ocean swims. No doubt this magical island has become a home away from home, a safe space, a place of transformation and self discovery.
WHAT TO DO
1. Relax on the beaches! (Check out the Best Beaches below for the top beaches on the island, views and vibes!)
2. Explore the waterfalls! There are several on the island that you won't want to miss including Paradise Waterfall, and Than Sadet Waterfall. Make it a day adventure, pack fruits and spend time relaxing in nature!
3. Ecstatic Dance! Enjoy some sober and freeing fun at an ecstatic dance party. No need to feel shy about your dance moves, feel the energy of the music and let loose, everyone around you will be too! The vibe is amazing with good music and open-minded people. Check facebook pages, event pages, yoga studios and Phangan Daily app for event times and locations. Events often take place at Pyramid yoga and Jaran's.
4. Night life and parties! Koh Phangan is known for it's Full Moon parties, Half Moon parties, Psytrance and Techno parties. Djs are flown in from around the world for the moon events and it's a full festival vibe, people coming by the thousands. When organizing your trip, aim to be here based on the moon. Otherwise there are still parties happening frequently each week.
Seaboard on Haad Yao has a techno party and artisan bazar (free to participate) every Thursday.
Check the schedule at Samsara for parties in Haad Rin.
Every Friday at the Rasta Home near Haad Yao there is a huge reggae party.
5. Drum circle, flow arts, acro yoga and kirtan at sunset, happening daily on Zen or Pirate beach.
6. Sunset at a viewpoint cafe. Get panoramic views and picturesque scenery at one of the many sunset cafes. Enjoy a coconut, cocktail, or dinner out with friends!
Secret Mountain is an beautiful adventure to get to, and when you arrive you won't be disappointed. It feels like arriving to the most amazing tree house in nature with a pool, food, and breathtaking views.
Amsterdam Bar, for panoramic sunset views on the island.
Apichada Bar, great views on the island. Perfect sunset view point!
Heaven Bar (Haad Yao), for a good view and relaxed green atmosphere. Be prepared for a rocky drive and lengthy climb of stairs, but it's worth it!
7. Saturday Night Street Market in Thong Sala. Starting near the pier you will begin to see the streets filled with vendors. The market offers everything from clothes to food. If you're daring enough, you can even find the man that sells insect snacks. Me, no thank you, but I do love shopping durian, local produce, sesame balls, vegan cakes, etc.
8. Food markets of Thong Sala. I personally love the Phantip Market, it's got cheap prices and a variety of tasty food to choose from. Ranging from Thai to Indian to Mediterranean, there's something for everyone. I love the shakes (cheapest on the island, 30bhat, 60bhat no ice), fresh spring rolls, vegan coconut pancakes, vegan samosas, and pad thai. Get lost in the area and you're sure to stumble across a few more markets like the Phangan Food Court and several others with local produce and cheap eats!
Sunday afternoon is a market at the Chaloklum pier that's worth checking out!
9. Labrakodabra event space for workshops and flow arts. Check out their facebook page for upcoming workshops (fire flow jams, hula hoop, stone wrapping, etc.).
10. Workshops and yoga happening around the island. Keep up-to-date by joining the facebook group 'Koh Phangan Conscious Community'. Workshops are happening daily on the island ranging from making bamboo tools, how to grow your own mushrooms, cacao ceremonies, all about coconuts, water flow, tantra, drum making, and so much more!
11. Cafe crawl. There are countless unique and delicious cafes on the island and more opening up each day! There are cheap cafes, local cafes, cafes with stunning views... See below Where to Eat for my top picks!
12. Inner Walk. Transform your inner world in the matter of 4 days. I highly recommend embarking on this 4 day journey, 12pm-6pm if your time allows. Sign up on their website or pop into their magical space for more details. The wisdom offered from group discussion is unbeatable. The time you give to yourself is profound. I would say it's a must do on the island!
BEST BEACHES
Swim, snorkel and watch sunset in paradise! Explore the many beautiful beaches of Koh Phangan!
(Not necessarily listed in ranking order!)
1. Zen Beach: Arrive just before sunset and the beach will be buzzing with energy. Acro yoga groups gather, flow artists spin, and musicians set the tone. The view of sunset is epic, you have a clear view of the sun as it goes behind the horizon and the whole sky changes colors. Further to the left is Naked Beach, you won't miss it.
2. Pirate Beach: Another top beach for sunset as it faces west, but also comes with amazing vibes and the freedom to swim naked. Musicians, artisans, flow artists and occasional food vendors gather here every evening. You'll no doubt run into familiar faces here. As you enter the beach through the access road just after the Family Mart, take the small wooden bridge to the left beyond the rocks.
3. Secret Beach: A beautiful beach that offers deeper water to swim (have a drink or snack at the resort to the right for access to amazing snorkel!). Secret beach is also another great sunset location. Walk to the left and you'll find coves between the rocks where people enjoy naked swimming.
4. Haad Yao Beach: A long beach great for walking or exercise. There are lots of cafes and restaurants to sit and enjoy a fresh coconut or dinner with sunset. You'll find people playing frisbee, working out, or relaxing with the view.
5. Bottle Beach: Personally, Bottle Beach is one of my top picks for beach views! You have to journey to arrive there, about an hour and half hike or 20 minute boat ride (150bhat from Chaloklum), but it's 100% worth it. The white sand beaches, deep swimming water, views of the mountains and palms, and privacy makes it for an epic get away. You can make it a vacation from vacation and rent a beach bungalow for 300+bhat a night.
6. Chaloklum Beach: Located in the North of the island, it is more remote and less crowded. The views are beautiful as well as the drive to get there. The boats in the bay make for a beautiful backdrop.
7. Happy Beach: Located just a quick walk to the left from Zen beach or through one of the many access points along the road. Happy beach has a bit deeper water than Zen or Pirate beach. It's family friendly and many people tend to gather around sunset for activities or during the day for yoga. The bungalows on the beach offer a great place to stay with convenient location.
8. Bovy Beach: A small cove beach located between Naked Zen and Pirate beach. It's family oriented based on the residents there. It's not necessarily a nude beach, but based on it's location, it's not out of the norm if you do choose to take a dip without your suit. Few people are there making it an intimate gathering location for sunset, music or yoga.
9. Hin Kong Beach: Try Freeman Bar for sunset for good views and atmosphere. You can walk out far when the tide is low. There are certain spots along the beach where palm trees stretch out horizontally which make for a fun photo spot!
10. Haad Rin Beach: Located in the South, this is the Full Moon Party beach! Due to Covid-19, when I visited it was empty, but all the amenities for tourists are there. The water is deep enough to swim, you can rent jet skis and paddle boards. There are countless bars lining the beach that also provide rooms and bungalows. The shops on the inside streets are conveniently selling beach toys, clothes, and everything you'd need for an effortless stay. The view of nature, palms and massive rocks is breathtaking! There are boats that can take you to further beaches in the area.
11. Koh Ma Beach: Located in the north, this beautiful beach is more quiet and secluded than others. The greenery around is peaceful and nurturing. The water is deep enough to swim. When the tide is low you can walk the sand path to the small island.
WHERE TO EAT
The island is loaded with cute vegan cafes and restaurants, even local Thai stalls offer a variety of plant-based options. Make sure to check out as many of them as you can, trust me, it's worth it!
(The list provided is not necessarily in raking order)
1. Phantip Food Market in Thong Sala. Close to the pier there is an open air walking market with many vendors and food stands. There are some stalls open around mid-day but the majority of vendors come around 3-4pm and into the evening. You are sure to find a variety of food, there is something for everyone, from local Thai cuisine, classic pad Thai, to vegan pancakes, donuts, fried sandwiches, fish, Indian, falafel and hummus and so much more. It is cheap and delicious. Remember to bring your own smoothie cup, fork, knife and spoon, and Tupperware to avoid the excessive use of plastic.
Fresh juice, 30bhat. Love all the combinations and flavors. Can do fruit and vegetable combo. This is the cheapest and best juice you'll find on the island.
Vegan pancakes. So yummy! Sweet and gooey in the middle. Simple ingredients. Will even impress the Europeans who claim fame to pancakes.
The best veg. Pad Thai! Make sure to say no fish sauce and egg. Ask for tofu. 40bhat. Filling and great flavor, experiencing the essence of Thailand!
The best papaya salad in all of Koh Phangan. The owners of the stall will make it super fresh for you right on the spot. I don't know what she does different than everyone else, but it's the best! Only 60bhat. Make sure to specify vegan.
Amazing fresh spring rolls! Vegetable and seaweed (20bhat), and an avocado roll (30bhat). I love them both, or one of each! Eat them whole or they will cut them for you. Add dipping sauce and peanuts if you wish. Sometimes I liked to take them togo and eat them at home with tahini. They also sell sushi by the piece and have several veg options!
Empanada stand. It's a lot of fried. However, if you're looking for this type of snack or 'treat' the vegetable one is flavored nicely and it's cheap (20bhat).
Indian stall on the inside right covered area has nice samosas for cheap. Again, a nice snack or cheap eat, but it's a lot of fried. I enjoyed as a nice one time snack, to try of course!
The falafel and hummus was average. The hummus I paid extra for and was a bit watery. The falafel were really dry. In total for the falafel salad plate and hummus was 130bhat. There was a Mediterranean restaurant in the covered part of the market that seemed a bit more pricy but better quality.
2. Saturday Night Market Thong Sala. Similar to Phantip market, but with a lot more vendors, clothes, art, jewelry, and food variety. It starts in the late afternoon/evening (5pm) going into the night. It's worth a visit to get a feel for the cultural cuisine, and there are plenty of vegetarian/vegan options. Walk the whole street, and see what you find! Don't arrive too late or there won't be as much food available! I love the vegan coconut pancakes, stalls of durian, sesame balls, vegan cakes and brownies, fresh fruits and vegetables to stock up on for the week, spring rolls, sticky rice, smashed bananas....
3. Phangan Food Market. It's a big covered market in Thong Sala with many food stalls, there is surely something for everyone! Food, produce and clothes are sold.
The vegan/vegetarian stall along the back wall towards the right corner. They have a vegan/vegetarian sign. Most curries are 60bhat and big portion. Rice is only an additional 20bhat.
The pineapple curry is one of the best curries on the island! It's a super big portion with the bowl exploding with veggies, it's fresh, and soooo good! If you care for rice, ask if her brown rice is available.
The pad Thai was also delicious. Honestly, this mama is a true chef serving with her heart.
Great massuman curry.
Cashew and vegetable curry, yum! Indulged on more than one occasion.
She makes a great mango sticky rice.
The fried morning glory, although smothered in a questionable sauce, is no doubt tasty.
To the right of the vegan/vegetarian stall, in the very right corner, there is a Salad Stall. Create your own salad bowl with 7-10 ingredients starting at 100bhat. The salads are huge, delicious, fresh and you have the power to choose everything down to the dressing! They also sometimes have vegan bread loaves, cinnamon rolls, and sweet treats. The falafel are sold for 5bhat a piece, yes!
The Brownie Stall, right in front of salad and vegan stall, you won't miss the display case, also sells some vegan sweets. They occasionally have a vegan brownie (big and chocolatey, but average taste), 40bhat.
The vegan banana bread is really moist and tasty. Take a couple slices togo and keep them in your fridge for a nice, cheap and relatively healthy snack, 20bhat.
4. Orien Cafe. Clean and healthy plant-based food. Part of a yoga studio and retreat center. They offer fasting programs so they have a detox menu with lighter options and a regular menu with innovative vegan cuisine. Did I mention delicious!....
"Meaty Mushroom Curry" is so flavorful and delicious! Definitely worth a taste!
The beetroot burger is filling and tasty. I opted to get it with the air fryer French fries, because it'd been a while since I had French fries, and I thoroughly enjoyed the indulgence without feeling guilty. They have gluten free buns too!
The Green Salad is simple but all the fresh herbs and greens make it something so good! The dressing is a great addition to flavor too!
The Snickers bar looked a bit better than it tasted. But chocolate...honestly...
The Orien Sea Salt Chocolate Bar is 100%! Get one and savor it over several days or share it with friends!
The Tofu Scramble breakfast is so yummy! I'll admit that I definitely craved this often after having once!
The Breakfast Burrito is super filling and soooo mouthwateringly amazing. It comes with the tofu scramble, so my craving is met, but is also topped with homemade ketchup, vegan cheese, cashew pesto, rice, and lettuce all on a whole wheat chapati. I don't want to tell you what to do, but you MUST try it!
5. Taboon. An Israeli restaurant in the heart of Srithanu. Nice atmosphere and ambiance. Sit at a table or cushions on the ground. You can buy tahini in there shop for 500g/400bhat. Tahini is great to use on salads, with dates, fresh vegetables, or on toast, apples, bananas, etc. Check out this amazing Tahini recipe!
The best falafel, well, maybe ever! The falafel plate or pita are therefore great options and highly recommended.
Really nice baba ganoush (roasted egg-plant dip), hummus, and tahini.
For a lighter fare, the steamed vegetable plate was nice...but I'd go for the falafel.
6. Eat.Co Srithanu. A chain, they also have a location in Thong Sala, but I really enjoyed the staff and the food! Plant-based and innovative cuisine. A nice atmosphere to grab a bite with friends or get some work done on the wifi. They also sell holistic health items like sage, oils, incense, reusable bottles, palo Santo, crystals, clothes, and jewelry.
The Jamu Chia Pod was a nice breakfast or lighter snack. Granola, soaked chia seeds and a turmeric smoothie blend served with orange slices. Yum!
The freak shakes are ah-mazing! The chocolate one is like a dessert, ice cold, thick and creamy by a blend of bananas and cacao. I can't forget about the brownie bites in it too! They have several different flavors to check out!
The sushi bowl is filling and a favorite of mine. It comes with brown rice, nori sheets, marinated carrot, tempeh, sprouts and more!
The toasts are a bit pricey but they are filling and fresh. The carrot salmon toast was super yum and something different than I was used to. They offer homemade bread or gluten-free alternatives. The avocado toast, well you can't go wrong there, it was enjoyed! The vegetable toast I also managed to try during my stay, and it was healthy and hearty.
The Mighty Mushroom bowl was heavy, so come hungry. Served over vegan mashed potatoes with beans, mushrooms, and more! It sure was good though!
The rainbow salad was earthy, fresh, filling, yet light! A nice eat for lighter fare.
The desserts are super temping and very good. The Twix wasn't my favorite, but the lemon pie was OMG and the peanut butter balls are a classic.
Yummy Ramen bowl that's color is beautiful and taste is mmm mm good.
Falafel burger....hello yum!
7. Karma Kafe. Similar to Eat.co, but again, good food and nice atmosphere.
The morning bowls are beautiful and filling.
The fresh pressed juices are really nice.
The salads are fresh and filling! I even like to add some pumpkin to a salad for a little bit of grounding and extra deliciousness as it's cooked with warm spices!
8. Thai Place. From the main road in Srithanu headed towards Green Gallery on the side street, it's the second stall on the right. They sell fruit and have tables outside for a local restaurant. There is a sign out front that says vegan/vegetarian.
The papaya salad is one of my favorites in Srithanu. Monitor your spice level. Make sure to say vegan or they may add fish sauce.
Good pad Thai with great flavor!
Cheap coconut, 30-35bhat! And when you finish drinking the liquid sunshine, they will open it for you so you can eat the 'meat'.
Really nice red curry and yellow curry. Order rice additionally if you want it with your meal.
Good and cheap mango sticky rice.
Purchase a mango, pineapple, or fruit and they can cut it for you to eat there!
9. Tee Juice Stand. From the main road in Srithanu headed towards Green Gallery on the side street, it's the first stall on the right. They have a slow press juicer and will make you fresh what you want. They offer a variety of vegetables and fruits! It's 90bhat for your fresh juice!
I love the green-detox, drink your greens with pineapple, mango & carrot...you can't go wrong...
10. Devi Deli. The best vegan cheese you'll ever eat! They also sell their homemade nut butters which are delish! You can try an assortment of drinks or smoothie bowls! Nice atmosphere and you're sure to run into a familiar face. A bit pricey but it's worth it!
My favorite 'cheese' is the Cumin Gouda followed by the Truffle but the Cheddar is also a winner.
The Choco Frosty is to die for. It's thick and creamy made with banana, cacao, homemade Nutella, and more...
Must try the sweet treats in the display case too, brownie... oh yeah!
11. Art in Chai. Super chill and welcoming atmosphere. The family that owns the place is really nice, they will chat with you if you stick around, or their cute toddler will enjoy playing with you. Good wifi if you want to get work done.
The chai with coconut milk or soy milk is so so good, the best on the island, and totally compares to famous chai in India. 80-90bhat.
The burgers (beet, black bean, or quinoa) are amazing! Double stacked patties to keep you full all afternoon. Black bean burger = love!
12. Wonderland Healing Center. Treat yourself to a day of yoga, sauna and vegan buffet with a day pass to Wonderland. The food is amazing, healthy, and did I mention buffet...vegan... The atmosphere is super open, close with nature, and inviting. It's worth an eat here!
13. Taste of Heaven. Offering a wide variety of vegan meat alternatives. The owners are really nice and welcoming.
The cauliflower bites are one of their specialties, and honestly are really, really good. They are best to share.
The pad Thai was honestly really disappointing, it had that fishy taste, I don't know if from the noodles or the mushrooms, but I couldn't finish it (and that's rare haha!).
The papaya salad was very fresh, recommended!
14. Art Cafe. Cozy atmosphere surrounded by books your can sit and read while you enjoy your food. A great place to unwind and maybe get some work done or enjoy tea and an intimate chat with friends.
They have a daily buffet for a set price that's filling and fresh.
The açaà bowl is amazing and thick, loaded with your choice of toppings!
The spring rolls come with a lot and peanut dipping sauce, it's like a delicious fresh salad in a roll!
15. Mama Kop. I think I loved this local Thai restaurant for the big black lab, Namaste, more than the food, but the food is good. Give Namaste a pet and watch his smile grow and teeth shine, it'll keep you laughing for hours.
Papaya salad, fresh and delicious.
Burmese salad, great flavor and healthy.
Pad Thai and Pat See Ew (thick noodles) are good, but heavy in sauce.
16. Sangsom. Friendly family owns this local Thai restaurant. Watch them prepare your food right on the spot in the open space!
Papaya salad is good, made fresh, specify your spice level and say light on the coconut sugar.
Pad Thai is a huge portion, filling, and delicious for a Pad Thai.
17. Green Gallery. Green Gallery has an amazing atmosphere, hosting many night events and music jams that are free to enter. The food is pricey but vegan and delicious!
The hummus is amazing!
18. Chana Masala. Delicious Indian food, big portions and fair prices. They have all your typical and loved curries and more.
Enjoying this delicious vegan thali traditional style (fingers as forks!) as a take away meal.
19. What's Cup Cafe. A great place to catch up on work or enjoy brunch with a friend. The view is stunning. They have a small menu but the shakes are good (a bit watery) and the sell vegan cookies!
20. Organic Love. Across the street from Green Gallery, this cafe has a super cute and clean atmosphere. Attached is a health and wellness shop! The staff is friendly and welcoming. The prices are a bit high but they offer vegan options.
21. Sati Pot. Although it's not a fully plant-based cafe, it is probably one of the cutest cafes on the island. The atmosphere is super cozy, inviting, covered in plants, has a beautiful alter, and they play amazing music. The lentil dal was super flavorful and delicious!
22. Sabai Bar. A hidden local gem! It's like a beautiful tree house with an incredible view between Haad Yao and Chaloklum. Enjoy simple and tasty Thai cuisine with an outstanding view and atmosphere.
23. Indigo Cafe. Indigo is a tea/coffee/pastry shop that serves a selection of food items as well. They have outside seating, indoor AC seating, and an upstairs lounge. It's the perfect space for online work or picking up productive energy. It's open all day and into the evening. I enjoyed the herbal tea selection, a pot is 100bhat and you can have them refill the water for a second go-round.
24. Mama Pong. I only got take away during the quarantine time. However, they use homemade coconut milk and curry paste. It's super fresh and tasty!
The green salad with coconut dressing was fresh and filling.
The green curry was mild, full of veggies, and a favorite!
25. Food & Roots. Located in Chaloklum, it's a vegan restaurant and health food shop beach side. Find super foods here for sale! It's got a great view, variety of dishes (that look amazing)...but quite high prices.
I got the Maca shake and was a bit disappointed because I thought it was quite watery yet expensive.
WHERE TO STAY
1. On a budget or traveling alone and want to be in the Srithanu area, try Shirelea (Hyde Out) Backpackers Hostel. They have dorms and bungalows to accommodate you. They have a pool, restaurant, AC and are 40m from Haad Yao beach. They offer to change your sheets daily and you have a privacy curtain. Events are organized throughout the week or pre-parties occur around the full and half moon. Search availability through Hostel World or Booking.com.
2. Looking for more of a resort feel, try Sea Garden Resort. The rooms have a beautiful view over the ocean, they are kept clean, some have a big bathtub or outdoor shower, and include AC. You can eat at the restaurant by the pool. Walk down to the sea for a private beach.
3. Recommended for a long term stay, try Srithanu Mangrove Villas. It's a bit expensive but the view is beautiful, you have access to a fairly private beach with a platform for yoga or picnic, and the house includes a bedroom, bathroom and kitchen all fairly new. It's convenient location and neighborhood a hill with many other 'long term stayers'.
4. Happy Beach has many strips of bungalows to choose from. You will be right on the beach and in the heart of Srithanu. I recommend just taking a walk along the beach and stopping in at reception for the bungalows that suit your needs. There is a range of prices so hopefully you'll find something to meet your budget. Some have kitchen, some don't.
5. Bovy Beach has nice houses for rent right on the water. There is a mix of long term and short term stayers. It is a true community and neighborhood. Prices are a bit high, but the family feel can be worth it!
6. Coconut Lane has houses available for rent. You can have a drive and inquire about vacancies. It's a great location, yet inland, not on the beach. The villas are beautiful, new, open, and with a pool.
7. Genesis has houses for rent with beautiful views and amenities. It's quiet and inland, but if you're high enough will have a sea view! The rooms are nice with balcony and kitchen. Higher price range.
GETTING THERE
Koh Phangan is an island in the south of Thailand off the east coast. There are several ways to access the island, which way suites you will depend on your budget and time frame.
From Bangkok
Train: Head to the train station and book your ticket to Surat Thani, there are typically 5 trains a day. I recommend a sleeper class for the journey. Upon arriving in Surat Thani you will then need to find transport to Lomprayah Ferry pier.
Bus:
From Bangkok the bus journey to Surat Thani takes about 10 hours. Leave from the southern bus terminal, Saitaimai Station, for more frequent departure times. The bus will drop you a little outside of town. You will then need to find another bus/taxi/ride to Lomprayah Ferry pier. The pier is roughly a 40 minute drive to reach.
Use the Grab app for cheap transfers via motor taxi or car.
From Surat Thani Airport
This was my means of travel to the island. From Bali I flew to Surat Thani with a layover in Bangkok. In the Bangkok airport you will see signs to pre-purchase your transport from Surat Thani to Koh Phangan (or Koh Samui, etc.) I paid the $20usd for the pre-purchase figuring it was cheap enough and would save me the hassle of figuring things out step-by-step. When I landed in Surat Thani there was a driver waiting for me with a sign that had my name. I climbed into the van with several other backpackers and we drove a ways in the direction of the pier. Mid-way through we stopped and switched into an open-air taxi, all climbing in the back with our bags. At the pier it wasn't a long wait before the ferries boarded. One boat to Koh Samui one to Koh Phangan.
You can purchase your transport directly at the Surat Thani airport for roughly the same price.
From Koh Samui Airport
Koh Samui, a neighboring island has an airport. It is generally more expensive to fly in and out of. However, you can book your flight from here and take a ferry from the pier to Koh Phangan. This will be a shorter journey.
GETTING AROUND
There are several modes of transport once you're on the island:
Walking, if you stay in a convenient location, is the cheapest option and allows you to take it slow, really getting to know your immediate surroundings.
Hitch hiking is super easy, other tourists are willing to pick you up and drop you off along their path.
Bicycle is another cheap alternative. You have a little more freedom than walking to explore the area. Many shops that rent scooters also rent bicycles. You can also try Lake View near Taboon in Srithanu for cheap bikes by the day, week or month.
Motor bike is the typical means of transport on the island. You can find a place to rent one on about any street on the island. They are easy to drive and operate, and the feeling of freedom while cruising around in paradise is priceless. When renting a bike they will give you a helmet, which seems more like a suggestion than a requirement on the island, as you'll see most people driving with no helmet and headphones in. Bikes can hold 2 people comfortably and possibly your whole family and a dog. The cheapest monthly price for rental is around 2000bhat and average is around 3000-3500bhat.
Cars are available to rent if you are a family or need 4 wheels.
Taxi cars drive around the island. This is a great option when first arriving to the island or heading to/from a party. The more people, the cheaper the price.
GOING GREEN
There are ways to travel and stay 'green'! Making conscious decisions to reduce waste and live sustainably doesn't need to be compromised when you're backpacking.
1. Unpacked. A refill and bulk store practicing zero waste. Find health foods like nuts, seeds, teas, super foods, and more in glass jars priced by the amount you want. They sell natural soaps, shampoos, laundry detergent, kitchen supplies...
2. Refill. Next to Lake View (near Taboon) in Srithanu is another refill, health food store with bulk items. They also sell fresh, organic produce, coconut yogurts, cacao, etc.
3. My Healthy Me. You will find their products circulating around the island being sold in several other shops. They sell coconut yogurts, nut butters, chutneys, pesto, sauces, vegan bounty bars (omg!) and more. Their location in Srithanu (across from Tee Juice) also has a small selection of natural products for healthy lifestyle.
4. Let your souvenirs come from either the second hand shops on the island or in the form of a tattoo (haha!). I received 2 bamboo style inks from Ben Freedom in Srithanu and would recommend!
5. Check FB events for trash pick ups on the beach. This serves not just as a way to clean our planet but a fun way to meet other travelers! You can also clean the beaches at any time on your own, and definitely make sure to clean up after yourself!
6. Take your own bags, straws, cutlery, cups and containers to the market. Make sure to quickly say 'no straw' or 'no plastic' or they'll have it wrapped for you in seconds.