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Koh Phangan, Thailand (2020)

My Quest For Zest...

What To Do

Best Beaches

Where To Eat

Where to Stay

Getting There

Getting Around

'Going Green'



It was bittersweet leaving Indonesia, the past two months had been paradise... Yet, I had a lot to look forward to. Originally my itinerary was as follows for Thailand: Koh Phangan 10 days to enjoy the beach and relax, Chiang Mai/Pi 5 days for temple visits, hot springs and cooking classes, then a flight into Vietnam. However, as Covid-19 spread exponentially around the world, borders throughout Southeast Asia closed, and I became grounded in Koh Phangan. Despite missing family back home in the USA, being quarantined on an island in the tropics wasn't necessarily a bad thing.

I have spent 5+ months in Koh Phangan and love the place more and more each day. My first impression of the island was tainted with comparisons to Indonesia. The prices were higher, and the beaches appeared similar. The cafes more expensive and the food not as unique or outstanding comparatively... but the local Thai food and the abundance of options right away blew me away. The night markets and food stalls are cheap, delicious and offer a wide selection to vegans/vegetarians. I spent the first two weeks driving every day from Srithanu to Thong Sala just for the cheap, fresh local food.

When markets closed and restaurants resorted to take-away I tended to cook more in my beach bungalow with an occasional pick-up, limiting my food-crawl but having more time and resources to maximize my coast exploration. However, as time passed and no new cases of Corona were present on the island, things slowly began to re-open and my cafe hop was restored.

My heart grew fond of Koh Phangan for the spiritual energy that vibrates around Srithanu, the fresh juices and flavorful food finds, the workshops and events that happen daily, the drum circles and kirtan on the beach, epic sunset views and ocean swims. No doubt this magical island has become a home away from home, a safe space, a place of transformation and self discovery.

Backpacking in Koh Phangan, Thailand. Best vegan restaurants and cafes on Koh Phangan. Best beaches to visit in Koh Phangan. Things to do and see on the island.



1. Relax on the beaches! (Check out the Best Beaches below for the top beaches on the island, views and vibes!)

2. Explore the waterfalls! There are several on the island that you won't want to miss including Paradise Waterfall, and Than Sadet Waterfall. Make it a day adventure, pack fruits and spend time relaxing in nature!

3. Ecstatic Dance! Enjoy some sober and freeing fun at an ecstatic dance party. No need to feel shy about your dance moves, feel the energy of the music and let loose, everyone around you will be too! The vibe is amazing with good music and open-minded people. Check facebook pages, event pages, yoga studios and Phangan Daily app for event times and locations. Events often take place at Pyramid yoga and Jaran's.

4. Night life and parties! Koh Phangan is known for it's Full Moon parties, Half Moon parties, Psytrance and Techno parties. Djs are flown in from around the world for the moon events and it's a full festival vibe, people coming by the thousands. When organizing your trip, aim to be here based on the moon. Otherwise there are still parties happening frequently each week.

Seaboard on Haad Yao has a techno party and artisan bazar (free to participate) every Thursday.

Check the schedule at Samsara for parties in Haad Rin.

Every Friday at the Rasta Home near Haad Yao there is a huge reggae party.

5. Drum circle, flow arts, acro yoga and kirtan at sunset, happening daily on Zen or Pirate beach.

6. Sunset at a viewpoint cafe. Get panoramic views and picturesque scenery at one of the many sunset cafes. Enjoy a coconut, cocktail, or dinner out with friends!

Secret Mountain is an beautiful adventure to get to, and when you arrive you won't be disappointed. It feels like arriving to the most amazing tree house in nature with a pool, food, and breathtaking views.

Amsterdam Bar, for panoramic sunset views on the island.

Apichada Bar, great views on the island. Perfect sunset view point!

Heaven Bar (Haad Yao), for a good view and relaxed green atmosphere. Be prepared for a rocky drive and lengthy climb of stairs, but it's worth it!

7. Saturday Night Street Market in Thong Sala. Starting near the pier you will begin to see the streets filled with vendors. The market offers everything from clothes to food. If you're daring enough, you can even find the man that sells insect snacks. Me, no thank you, but I do love shopping durian, local produce, sesame balls, vegan cakes, etc.

8. Food markets of Thong Sala. I personally love the Phantip Market, it's got cheap prices and a variety of tasty food to choose from. Ranging from Thai to Indian to Mediterranean, there's something for everyone. I love the shakes (cheapest on the island, 30bhat, 60bhat no ice), fresh spring rolls, vegan coconut pancakes, vegan samosas, and pad thai. Get lost in the area and you're sure to stumble across a few more markets like the Phangan Food Court and several others with local produce and cheap eats!

Sunday afternoon is a market at the Chaloklum pier that's worth checking out!

9. Labrakodabra event space for workshops and flow arts. Check out their facebook page for upcoming workshops (fire flow jams, hula hoop, stone wrapping, etc.).

10. Workshops and yoga happening around the island. Keep up-to-date by joining the facebook group 'Koh Phangan Conscious Community'. Workshops are happening daily on the island ranging from making bamboo tools, how to grow your own mushrooms, cacao ceremonies, all about coconuts, water flow, tantra, drum making, and so much more!

11. Cafe crawl. There are countless unique and delicious cafes on the island and more opening up each day! There are cheap cafes, local cafes, cafes with stunning views... See below Where to Eat for my top picks!

12. Inner Walk. Transform your inner world in the matter of 4 days. I highly recommend embarking on this 4 day journey, 12pm-6pm if your time allows. Sign up on their website or pop into their magical space for more details. The wisdom offered from group discussion is unbeatable. The time you give to yourself is profound. I would say it's a must do on the island!



Swim, snorkel and watch sunset in paradise! Explore the many beautiful beaches of Koh Phangan!

(Not necessarily listed in ranking order!)

1. Zen Beach: Arrive just before sunset and the beach will be buzzing with energy. Acro yoga groups gather, flow artists spin, and musicians set the tone. The view of sunset is epic, you have a clear view of the sun as it goes behind the horizon and the whole sky changes colors. Further to the left is Naked Beach, you won't miss it.

2. Pirate Beach: Another top beach for sunset as it faces west, but also comes with amazing vibes and the freedom to swim naked. Musicians, artisans, flow artists and occasional food vendors gather here every evening. You'll no doubt run into familiar faces here. As you enter the beach through the access road just after the Family Mart, take the small wooden bridge to the left beyond the rocks.

3. Secret Beach: A beautiful beach that offers deeper water to swim (have a drink or snack at the resort to the right for access to amazing snorkel!). Secret beach is also another great sunset location. Walk to the left and you'll find coves between the rocks where people enjoy naked swimming.

4. Haad Yao Beach: A long beach great for walking or exercise. There are lots of cafes and restaurants to sit and enjoy a fresh coconut or dinner with sunset. You'll find people playing frisbee, working out, or relaxing with the view.

5. Bottle Beach: Personally, Bottle Beach is one of my top picks for beach views! You have to journey to arrive there, about an hour and half hike or 20 minute boat ride (150bhat from Chaloklum), but it's 100% worth it. The white sand beaches, deep swimming water, views of the mountains and palms, and privacy makes it for an epic get away. You can make it a vacation from vacation and rent a beach bungalow for 300+bhat a night.